In 1958 an earthquake levelled the seaside city of Fethiye (feh-tee-yeh), sparing only the remains of the ancient city of Telmessos. More than half a century on and it is once again a prosperous hub of the western Mediterranean, and also a major base for gület (Turkish yacht) cruises. Despite its booming growth, Fethiye is incredibly low-key for its size, due mostly to the restrictions on high-rise buildings and the transitory nature of the gület business, which brings travellers flocking here April through to October.
Fethiye's natural harbour is perhaps the region's finest, tucked away in the southern reaches of a broad bay scattered with pretty islands, in particular Sövalye Adas?, glimpsed briefly in the James Bond film Skyfall. About 15km south is Ölüdeniz, one of Turkey's seaside hot spots, and the surrounding countryside has many interesting sites to explore, including the ghost town of Kayaköy (or Karmylassos), waiting patiently and in silence just over the hill.